Anyone who has ever pulled up a bath mat in an old London flat knows the feeling. You are staring at a patch of grimy, cracked vinyl or maybe some sad, beige ceramic squares, and you just know something better is hiding underneath. That is exactly how our victorian floor tiles project started. We ripped out a truly depressing 1980s bathroom and finally gave the whole room a proper period makeover. The result? Honestly, the transformation is so dramatic that even the plumber, a man who has seen everything, let out a low whistle when he saw the finished floor.
If you are nodding along because you have the same tired bathroom, then this post is for you. I am going to walk you through the renovation of our little London house, but not as a simple gallery of pretty pictures. Look, we made a ton of mistakes during this process, and I want to share those exact errors so you can avoid them. This is the common-mistakes-and-how-to-avoid-them guide I wish I had read before we started tearing up our Victorian floor, rather than the glossy blog posts that make it all look effortless. There is a right way and a very, very wrong way to lay encaustic tiles, and we almost found them all.
Mistake 1: Assuming the Old Floor Structure is Ready for Victorian Tiles
Here is the thing, period homes look sturdy, but the floors can be a mess. Our original floorboards were warped, creaked like a haunted house, and had a noticeable dip in the corner where the old cast-iron tub used to sit. We were so excited to buy our fancy Victorian floor tiles that we totally ignored the actual structural integrity of the room.
The fix is not glamorous, but it is essential. Before anything else, we had to lift the floorboards, install new noggins for support, and lay a 18mm plywood base to create a perfectly flat, rigid substrate. If you skip this, your beautiful new tiles will crack or, worse, pop off the floor within a year. Do not fall in love with the tiles until you have checked the subfloor. Trust me on this one.
Mistake 2: Choosing the Wrong Size or Type for the Space
Bathrooms in Victorian houses are often smaller than you remember. We originally fell head over heels for a huge, 20cm geometric design, thinking it would make a statement. It would have been a mess. In a compact wet room, those large encaustic tiles just fracture the visual space and make it feel like a public toilet.
We switched to a classic 10cm square encaustic tile with a simple black and white border detail. It was the best decision we made during the entire bathroom renovation. The smaller scale adds a beautiful texture and actually makes the room feel larger because there is more visual continuity. If you have a small space, do not go big. Go classic, go small, and let the pattern shine.
Mistake 3: Getting the Measuring and Layout Wrong
This is where the “how-to” guides get boring, but it is so important. We used a laser level, and we still managed to mess up the first row. The issue was not the laser; it was a lack of planning. You have to dry-lay your encaustic tiles across the entire floor before you even think about mixing adhesive.
We made sure the cuts were hidden at the edges, usually under the vanity and near the back wall. Also, a central line is your best friend. We marked a chalk line down the center of the room to ensure the pattern was perfectly symmetrical as you walk in. If you just start tiling from a corner, you will end up with a weird sliver of a cut tile right in the middle of the doorway. And that looks ridiculous.
Mistake 4: Using the Wrong Adhesive and Grout
You cannot use standard wall tile adhesive for heavy floor tiles. We knew that, but we almost messed up the grout. Standard grout is a magnet for mold, and in a damp London bathroom, that is a death sentence. We needed an epoxy grout, which is a bit more expensive and a total pain to apply, but it is waterproof and will stay looking white for years.
We also learned the hard way that you should only mix a small batch of adhesive at a time. The stuff sets so fast, and if you hesitate, you are scraping dried glue off your expensive tile edges. It turns a relaxing Saturday project into a panic attack. Take your time, but be efficient. And for the love of god, seal the tiles before you grout. The pigment in encaustic tiles is porous, and the grout can stain them permanently if you do not.
Mistake 5: Forgetting the Transition (The Threshold Problem)
We were so focused on the floor inside the bathroom that we forgot about the hallway outside. The doorframe is the point where an old wooden floor meets your new tiled floor. You need a transition strip, or you will have a sharp metal edge that looks like it belongs in a warehouse.
As part of our londonhouse renovation, we found a beautiful solid brass threshold that bridges the gap perfectly. It protects the edge of the tiles and looks much more original to the era than a cheap silver strip. We also had to take the bottom off the bathroom door to account for the extra height. That was a classic “we did not measure that” moment, resulting in sawdust in our hair and a very jagged cut that we had to hide.
Mistake 6: Skipping the Underfloor Heating (The Biggest Regret)
Ok so, this is the one screw-up I will never forgive myself for. The classic look of victorianfloor tiles is beautiful, but waking up on a cold November morning in London and stepping onto that cold stone is not fun. It is a shock to the system, and it makes a lovely room feel unpleasant.
We decided to cut costs and skip the electric underfloor heating. It was a terrible idea. The tiles were already laid by the time we realized our mistake. If you are laying encaustic tiles, just budget for the heating mat. It is thin, it goes down easily over the plywood, and it turns a beautiful floor into a luxurious one. Do not be a fool like us. Spend the extra £200, it is worth it for the winter alone. Seriously, you will thank me every single morning.
Mistake 7: Forgetting the Underlayment and Waterproofing
In a bathroom, water is the enemy. A small leak from a toilet or a splashed bath can seep between the tiles and rot the wood below. It is not enough to just wipe the floor; you need a waterproof membrane under the plywood and possibly around the base of the walls.
We used a liquid rubber membrane painted over the plywood before tiling. It looks like black tar, but it dries into a seamless, waterproof barrier. It adds a step to the process, but it gives you total peace of mind. The last thing you want is to see a damp patch spreading across the ceiling of the kitchen below, all because you rushed this crucial part of the renovation. It is the least pretty part of the job, but it is the one that stops your house from crumbling into dust.
The Final Reveal: Why We Love Our Victorian Floor
Looking back at the “before” photos now is genuinely painful. The room was cold, dark, and depressing. Now, the floor is the first thing you see, and it does all the heavy lifting. We did not need wallpaper or fancy wall panels because the floor provides so much character. It is not just a surface; it is the soul of the room.
We paired the dark charcoal-black tiles with white sanitary ware and brass fixtures. It has that traditional yet fresh feel that you only get with a thoughtful period renovation. The encaustic patterns just fit the age of the house better than any plain ceramic tile ever could. It connects the room to its history. If you are considering a tile renovation, just save this for inspiration and learn from our pain. Have you started your own Victorian floor adventure yet? Drop a question below, I am happy to help you figure out your layout.
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